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Australia · Fiji · Vanuatu · Cook Islands |
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About Noumea New CaledoniaA few holiday observations... Clack. "Merde..." Clack. "Oo-la-la!" Just a sample of some of the sounds you may hear at the beachside petanque courts at Anse Vata. More men play petanque than women but this seems more the choice of women than a chauvinistic thing. The game here is played with a lot of flair and friendly sledging... and there's something 'cool' about the magnets on strings used to pick up the boule... so cool, at my 12-year-old's insistence, we searched the sports stores of Noumea to find one. We found some in the fourth store we tried but, in the one prior, was the second occasion James had said 'merde' in English and got away unchecked. We walked into a section of the store where three walls were packed with weapons of all description from crossbows to semi-automatic rifles. The only guns he has come across are the sideshow alley slug guns that have just enough firepower to flap over a small metal duck. Having grown up in rural Australia a few decades ago, the rifle was kept in the same hall cupboard as the tennis racquets. Times change, I thought, and sometimes for the better. Nudity This was the other occasion young son went without reprimand when he exclaimed, "Shit!" Yes, topless bathing is very much part of tourist beaches in Noumea (it is a French thing and not part of Melanesian custom). Strangely, Newton's Law came to mind - not the one about gravity, but that every action has an equal and opposite reaction. It seemed that the bodies that should have been screaming 'look at me, look at me!!' were tastefully presented in expensive swimwear whereas those who should have been inclined to cover up didn't. Of course, I only noted this in the name of social research. And, on second thoughts, perhaps 'gravity' did come to mind. If you do feel the urge to get an all-over tan, please remember that the sun can be deceptive - while the sun can feel like spring, it burns like summer Japanese & Cameras Now, we all have different social customs and norms and as much as I hate to generalise, I will. (I don't really hate to generalise, but best be PC) You see, I have long had trouble coming to terms with the Japanese and photography. Before the digital age you would see them shoot off a roll before breakfast - the photos of the holiday were far more important than the holiday. It was as if the memory gene in this race had malfunctioned - and I thought the arrival of 'develop-as-you-go' would have be a great timesaver... Not so, it now seems to be a more studied hobby. The subject matter may still be as interesting as your partner in front of a wall, but editing now comes into play. I watched a couple poolside. She took shots of her new hubby from the side, then front on as he posed in a deck chair. They considered the options, saved and swapped places - with him taking photos from the same angles. Again, they looked at the results, saved and spent considerable time admiring each other (in the camera, not in 3D). They left and, coincidentally, shortly after, another Japanese couple arrived and set up the deck chairs with towels and precision. They went through exactly the same ritual - shots from the side, front, him and her, and then sat, huddled together, admiring themselves in digital splendour. I would love to attend a Japanese 'slide night'. Just once, mind you... And at the reception desk of most hotels you will find a publication called 'Picnic' - this is the 'to do and see' Bible for Japanese tourists - most will rarely experience any restaurant, shopping or attraction not advertised here. French Letters... It was in an Internet café in Noumea that I discovered the French keyboard. It's not too different but because 'q' is more common in French than English, it is where the 'a' is on the English keyboard, which explains why some of my emails were signed off by 'Iqn'... The word 'Internet', incidentally, is one of the few English words to be adopted into their language by the French. 'Television' and 'weekend' are two others that come to mind. You will encounter French words, both spoken and written. You will quickly get used to greeting/responding with 'Bonjour' - and if you enter a shop, you should always say hello to the shopkeeper before browsing like we do at home - otherwise we (Australians and New Zealanders) are the ones considered aloof and arrogant! A few other simple phrases you will hear and may want to use... Ca va? Means 'how goes it? etc - a simple 'Ca va' can also be the response ('goes well') but you may want to go for the sentence... 'Oui, ca va bien merci.' You will also hear 'd'accord' (pronounced dack-or) meaning 'agreed or ‘okay’. A few written words you may come across...
Ouvert - the shop is open... And you may also come across English signs that are a little different in wording because of the translation, like this one on the door of the massage boutique at the Park/Nouvata Hotels: "Hello. Sorry, I am actually in effort, but leave your co-ordinates at the 76.76.69 and I will call you as soon as possible." 'Nestle' is a familiar brand you will see a lot (well, it is a French company!). When I was young it was pronounced to rhyme with 'wrestles' until we too adopted the French pronunciation... it still seems a little weird to see Milo from the tin being sprinkled on your waffle. Other French letters you will see are 'NC' (for New Caledonia) following the six digit number plates. Now, I thought this was tautology, seeing NC is an island that would prohibit a car from another country driving in BUT we did spot one car with a different abbreviation - so there's a game for people who like to count the cracks in footpaths! And finally, another sign you may see looming large is 'Tampons' - this, in French, means 'rubber stamps', which is fortunate because one such outlet in the city advertises a 'one hour turnaround' on all tampons. Expensive? New Caledonia (particularly Noumea) is considered expensive by Australians and New Zealanders - and the cost of living overall is a more expensive than home BUT... 1. It is a darn sight cheaper to experience the French Riviera here than in the south of France - and the weather is better! 2. The package price for accommodation and flights is comparable to Fiji and Vanuatu (and it is closer) 3. If you adjust the way you holiday a little, your daily budget won't break the bank. Here are a few tips: Resist mini-bar madness - mini-bars the world over will rip you off... empty out the fridge and stock from the shops (there are mini-supermarkets a short walk from most accommodation properties) - for example, a bottle of local water (Mont Dore) is 80F at the shop and 300F in a mini-bar; a bottle of Heineken from the mini-bar 500F (AUD$8.50) and 190F at the shop ($3.00) and local beer (Number One) 145F. And, unlike in Vanuatu, you can buy alcohol on Sundays. A bottle of Australian wine at the shop, like Banrock Station, costs around AUD$10 - and about the same for the reliable French quaffer JP Chenet Blanc de Blanc. While at the shops, buy lunch from the shelves... pate, cheese, gherkins, fruit, breadsticks... with this type of lunch and crepes/croissants for breakfast, you can afford a fine meal at night - which, incidentally, doesn't have to be more expensive than you will pay in a good restaurant at home... an example, Bellaggio is a good restaurant in Baie des Citrons - has the ambience and charm of the French Riviera and will more than likely have as many locals dining as tourists (always a good sign). A sample meal for two... antipasti to share (tuna, chicken, ham, procuitto, olives, seafood mouse etc) - for mains, Escalope au Crème (fillet of veal with mushrooms, cream with potatoes and garlic beans) and Involtini (veal with asparagus) and a good bottle of wine (or an adequate one and a half carafes!) - 5800F (AUD$95). And tipping is not part of the culture... It's also inexpensive to get around 150F anywhere on a bus and probably 500F to 700F from restaurant to resort in a taxi (although you will probably find dining options a walk away). Hire cars are also inexpensive - Visa Car Hire will get you a nice little runabout for around AUD$40.00 per day (2900F) - they have an office at Baie des Citrons - Ph 26.24.44. A couple of things that are expensive - film (get yours duty free on the way over) and hairdressing. More Dining Out As mentioned, look for locals using restaurants (they dress and walk a little differently and, naturally, will be conversing en Francais - and there's every chance that the female partner will have a small dog on her lap). Restaurants have menus on display outside, so you will know what to expect. Here are some dining out suggestions outside the hotels/resorts... Before looking at some (by area), there are two you will probably come, one through geography, the other through word of mouth. The latter is l'Eau Vive a.k.a. the Singing Nuns - this is a curious restaurant run by an order of nuns that offers an adequate menu and reasonable wine list with the added bonus of a fine rendition of Ave Maria at 9:00pm. Friends of mine have had a fantastic night there but my children were underwhelmed. James (12) said, "It feels more like someone's home than a restaurant - without the family. And there's a picture of the Pope on the wall." Laura (8) remarked after I had finalised the bill, "You know the best thing about tonight? We're leaving." I told them that it would be a night they would never forget. James replied, "Yes, Mr Griswald." So, I'll leave that up to you... The other is Le Fun Beach, which is on the point between Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons opposite the Surf Novotel. A fantastic location but an expensive tourist trap with average food. I doubt whether locals would eat there. Bon appetit! Anse Vata:
Baie des Citrons (this is my pick if time is short)
Nouville
Magenta
Noumea
Changing Money Firstly, the local notes are very, very pretty... and the larger denominations weren't quite designed with small wallets in mind. You can change money at hotel receptions or over the counter at a bank (you will need you passport and there will be a fee of around $12). Best to use ATMs (in Noumea central and Anse Vata, not Baie des Citrons) - make sure you have a 4 digit PIN because 6 digit PINs aren't recognised. Click here for information on Honeymoon Resorts in New Caledonia, Noumea and Isle Of Pines. |
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